This is the story of Steph, Susan, Todd, and me on the adventure of a lifetime.
For me, it started the year before; for Steph, it started in high school.
Background
Arthur and Laura Carson, Steph and Susan’s great-grandparents, were the first missionaries to the Chin state in Burma 1899.
Steph was visiting from Sweden for Susan’s birthday and told me he was going to Burma to find his great-grandfather’s grave. Without hesitation, I said, “Count me in.” I was eager to travel abroad again, and I love adventures.
Laura wrote a book about her experience, which Steph first read in high school. He wasn't sure if he would ever be able to visit since the country was closed by a coup in 1962.
That changed in 2011 after a civilian government was voted in with just enough power to lift the sanctions and reopen the country. Steph reached out and made contacts. There were emails. We bought tickets and were off.
Little did I know what we were getting into or how revered Laura and Authur were. We soon found out.
Itinerary
I flew from LAX to Yangon, on December 28, 2018, and returned on January 11. Starting in Yangon, Steph, his sister Susan, her husband Todd, and I traveled by plane to Kalay and then by van on dirt roads to Hakha, the capital of the Chin state, where Arthur is buried. All along the way, we visited churches, met church leaders, and were treated like royalty in one of the poorest countries in the world. We returned south to Bagan, where I left the party behind, took an overnight bus across the country, and flew home from Yangon.
We were accompanied by Hla Aung, who took care of us the entire trip. We were basically sequestered, shuttled from town to town and church to church. I paid for the hotel in Yangon, the plane trip to Kalay, and the bus ride back to Yangoon. The Baptist Church paid for everything else: food, lodging, and travel.
I was along for the ride in the true spirit of Riding Gaia.
December 30th
After landing in Yangon and finding Steph and Hla Aung we were dropped off at the hotel. Steph and I relaxed and walked through the park on a lake across the street.
We are not in Kansas.
While strolling down a wide path, looking around, we realized someone was trying to get our attention. Unknowingly, we had walked past a collection booth to pay a fee for the park. Neither Steph nor I had exchanged money for the local currency, and the dollars I pulled out of my wallet were met with strange faces. Not knowing the fee or getting a feel for the exchange rate, I opened my wallet, and they went through my bills. They took a couple, straightened them, returned the rest, and just seemed frustrated with us. I was like take what you want. I'm pretty sure we underpaid.
We learned later that banks will refuse US Dollars if they are not pristine. Of course, none of my bills were new. In Burma/Myanmar, money is not always honered.
In 1985, under General Ne Win, the government demonetized the 25, 35, and 75 kyats banknotes without warning. This action rendered about 80% of the currency in circulation worthless overnight.
Two years later, in 1987, under Ne Win's regime again, the government suddenly announced the demonetization of the 25, 35, and 75 kyat notes and introduced new banknotes in 45 and 90 kyats. These denominations were reportedly chosen based on Ne Win's belief in numerology. This demonetization wiped out 75% of the money in circulation, leading to severe economic distress among the populace and the widespread discontent that culminated in the 1988 nationwide protests and the subsequent political upheaval.
We were to find numerous things different. I wish we had traffic lights like Yangon, they have a countdown timer.
December 31st
The next day, Susan and Todd joined us. We visited a church elder and the Taukkyan War Cemetery, which honors the British Commonwealth soldiers who died in Burma during the Second World War.
We visited the Baptist Headquarters, which supported the missionaries.
"Arthur Carson and Laura Harding both committed their lives to serve the Lord on the foreign mission field. In 1883, Laura Harding went to Burma to teach in a mission school. Her fiancé, Arthur Carson, remained in America to complete his theological studies. After graduation, he arrived in Burma in 1886 and he and Laura Harding were wed. Arthur volunteered to be the first American missionary to work among the people known as the Chin, a people who had never been exposed to the gospel." www.tribune.org/arthur-laura-carson/
We watched the New Year celebration from the hotel's roof that night. It went on most of the night, with pounding dance music in the distance.
That covers the first 2 days, 10 to go. Stay tuned. Next, our first church visit.
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